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TRONDHEIM |
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TRONDHEIM , an atmospheric city with much of its eighteenth-century
centre still intact, has been an important Norwegian power base for
centuries, its age-old importance guaranteed by the excellence of its
harbour and its position at the head of a wide and fertile valley. The
early Norse parliament, or Ting, met here, and the city was once a major
pilgrimage centre. The city centre sits on a small triangle of land, a
pocket-sized area where the main sights - bar the marvellous cathedral -
have an amiable low-key quality about them. Trondheim also possesses a
clutch of good restaurants and a string of busy bars.
The City
The colossal Nidaros Domkirke , Scandinavia's largest medieval building,
gloriously restored following the ravages of the Reformation and several
fires, remains the focal point of the city centre (May to mid-June &
late Aug to mid-Sept Mon-Fri 9am-3pm, Sat 9am-2pm, Sun 1-4pm; mid-June
to late Aug Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-2pm, Sun 1-4pm; mid-Sept to April
Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, Sat 11.30am-2pm, Sun 1-3pm; 25kr). Taking
Trondheim's former name (Nidaros means "mouth of the River Nid"), the
cathedral is dedicated to King Olav, Norway's first Christian ruler, who
was killed at the nearby battle of Stiklestad in 1030. After the battle,
Olav's body was spirited away and buried here, his resting place marked
by the erection of a chapel, which was altered and enlarged over the
years to accommodate the growing bands of pilgrims, achieving cathedral
status in 1152. Thereafter, it became the traditional burial place of
Norwegian royalty and, since 1814, it has also been the place where
Norwegian monarchs are crowned. The stonework of the early Gothic choir
is especially fine, with the flying buttresses and pointed arches
decorated with all manner of tiny heads and gargoyles. Inside, the
gloomy half-light hides much of the lofty decorative work, but it is
possible to examine the striking choir screen and font, both the work of
the Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943). If possible, visit
in the early morning to avoid the tour-bus crowds.
Behind the Domkirke lies the heavily restored archbishop's palace, the
Erkebispegården , a courtyard complex flanked by stone and brick wings
of medieval provenance. The archbishops were kicked out during the
Reformation and the palace was subsequently used as the city armoury.
Some of the old weapons are now displayed in the west wing, which has
been turned into the Army and Resistance Museum (June-Aug Mon-Fri
9am-3pm, Sat & Sun 11am-4pm; rest of year Sat & Sun 11am-4pm; free). Its
most interesting section, on the top floor, recalls the German
occupation during World War II, dealing honestly with the sensitive
issue of collaboration. The south wing houses a lavish ecclesiastical
museum (June-Aug Mon-Sat 10/11am-3/5pm, Sun noon-4/5pm; rest of year
Tues-Sat 11am-3pm, Sun noon-4pm; 25kr, or free with cathedral ticket),
largely devoted to a few dozen medieval sculptures stashed away when the
cathedral was partly rebuilt at the end of the nineteenth century. A
short walk north of the Domkirke, the Museum of Decorative Arts ,
Munkegata 5 (June-Aug Mon-Sat 10am-3/5pm, Sun noon-4/5pm; rest of year
Wed-Sat 10am-3pm, Sun noon-4pm; 30kr), holds a splendid assortment of
furniture, tapestries, glassware and silver; it also features a first-rate
programme of temporary exhibitions.
Near at hand is Torvet , the main city square, a spacious open area
anchored by a statue of Olav Tryggvason, perched on a stone pillar like
some medieval Nelson; the statue is also a sundial. The broad and
pleasant avenues of Trondheim's centre radiate out from here; they date
from the late seventeenth century, when they doubled as fire breaks.
They were originally flanked by long rows of wooden buildings, now
mostly replaced by uninspiring modern structures. One conspicuous
survivor is the Stiftsgården (June-Aug Mon-Sat 10am-3/5pm, Sun noon-5pm;
guided tours every hour on the hour; 35kr), the yellow creation just
north of Torvet on Munkegata. Built in 1774-78 as the home of a
provincial governor, it's now an official royal residence. A long series
of period rooms with fanciful Italianate wall paintings reflect the
genteel tastes of the early occupants, and the anecdotal guided tour
raises a smile or two, but not perhaps 35kr wide.
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